by Karen Briggs
Equine nutrition is likely one of the most misunderstood facets of daily horse care. Here’s the rundown on a few common feeding myths – and the real truth!
When it comes to feeding horses, sometimes we feel like we’re in over our heads.
Despite the ability of many horse people to diagnose a strained suspensory at 30 paces, fix a faulty flying change with just a smidge more outside leg, or understand the intricacies involved in getting that old tractor to start, a surprising number of us are baffled by the basic principles of equine nutrition.
We’re content to believe the myths and misconceptions that flourished in our grandfather’s day, to feed whatever our neighbours are feeding … or to just plain get overwhelmed by the whole subject!
The result is that a great many horses are fed more according to tradition than to sound scientific fact, and their overall health may suffer because of it.
However, feeding horses really isn’t rocket science. It’s pretty simple to understand, if you take the time. Let’s take a few minutes now to explode some of those pervasive nutrition myths, and replace them with some solid facts upon which you can base your feeding program.
Myth #1
Horses need grain in their diets.
FACT: Horses evolved as grazing animals, and forage (pasture and/or hay) is still the basis of their dietary needs.
The equine digestive system is designed to break down tough, stemmy plants and extract all the nutrition and energy they need from those materials.
A great many horses get along very well on a forage-only diet; if your horse has finished growing, and is only in light work, is an easy keeper, or is basically a happy pasture potato, he has no need for grain.
So what’s the advantage of grain? It supplies concentrated energy, in the form of carbohydrates, which some horses need if they’re being asked to do work over and above what they would normally do in the wild.
Show horses, racehorses, and nursing broodmares can all use the extra nutritional support of grain to help fuel their higher energy expenditure.
However, because the equine digestive system is poorly designed to digest large quantities of carbohydrates, there’s a limit to how much grain you can feed (unless you want to risk dangerous conditions like colic and laminitis).
As a rule of thumb, remember that every horse should consume between 1.5% and 3.0% of his bodyweight in feed every day … and at least half of that should be forage, by weight.
Myth #2
A horse in hard work needs higher levels of protein in his diet.
FACT: In a pinch, protein can be used by the horse’s body as an energy source, but it’s a very poor way to fuel performance, because molecule for molecule, protein doesn’t produce much energy, and the horse’s body has to go to great effort (chemically speaking) to extract it. Carbohydrates and fats are much better energy sources – far more energy-packed than protein, and easier to break down and absorb.
However, protein does have a role to play in the diet. It provides amino acids, the “building blocks” for the construction and repair of muscles, bones, ligaments, and all the other structures of the body.
Young, growing horses, and those being used for breeding have higher protein demands because they are building new tissues; mature horses not being used for breeding, however, only need about 8 to 11% crude protein in their overall diets to provide enough amino acids for the occasional tissue repair.
The need for protein doesn’t really increase as a horse’s energy demands do, either, so there’s no need to switch to a higher protein feed if your horse is in high-intensity work.
Myth #3
Corn/oats/barley/sweetfeed/ you-name-it will make my horse “hot.”
FACT: It’s true that horses naturally want to burn off their excess energy, so if the diet is supplying more than their current level of exercise demands, then they’ll start bouncing off the walls. It’s also true that a very fit horse tends to feel really good, so his level of exuberance may increase. However, no one type of feed is likely to be responsible – instead, it’s the amount of feed that’s at fault.
Certain grains may have gained a reputation for being “hot” feeds because they’ve been substituted indiscriminately for a similar volume of a lower-energy feed.
Corn and barley, which have no fibrous hull, are more concentrated energy sources than oats, which do have a hull.
So if you substitute a coffee-can of corn for a coffee-can of oats, then you’ll have a problem! This is why it’s so important to feed your horses by weight, not by volume.
If you want to make a feed substitution, weigh your coffee-can full of oats … and then measure out the same weight in corn, or barley, or sweetfeed, or whatever.
Chances are your coffee-can won’t be full! But you’ll be providing your horse with a similar amount of energy, so you won’t end up with an equine that thinks he’s one of the Flying Walendas!
Molasses, by the way, have also received a bad rap. The amount of molasses in an average sweetfeed only comes to about 1 to 2% of its total content … hardly enough to give your horse a sugar buzz.
If your horse acts “hot” when he’s fed sweetfeed, it’s likely because that sweetfeed contains more concentrated carbohydrates than he’s used to.
Myth #4
When you feed a complete feed, you don’t have to feed hay.
FACT: Well, sometimes. Definitions of “complete feeds” vary from manufacturer to manufacturer – sometimes the term is used to indicate a grain ration which is fortified with vitamins and minerals to make it “complete,” but is still designed to be fed with forage (hay or pasture).
Sometimes it’s used to indicate the feed contains both concentrates (grain) and forage (chopped or pelleted hay, or another fibre source such as beet pulp), and is designed to make up 100% of your horse’s diet.
Generally, it’s best if your horse does eat long-stemmed forage (hay or pasture) along with his grain ration, for two reasons. First, it will help keep his digestive system purring along as it should, and second, it will help satisfy his natural grazing urge.
But if your horse suffers from severe allergies, which prevent him from eating hay, seek out a “complete feed” with a high concentration of beet pulp (more on this ingredient in a moment).
Be aware, though, that if hay doesn’t make up part of the diet, your horse may become a beaver, chewing his stall fixtures, the fencelines and anything else left within reach!
Myth #5
Sugar beet pulp is high in sugar. And if it’s not properly soaked in water, it will expand inside your horse’s gut and cause a horrible gastric rupture.
FACT: Let’s explode the myths instead of the horse! Beet pulp is the fibrous substance that’s left over after they extract the sugar from sugar beets. It contains almost no sugar (unless the manufacturer has added a little dry molasses to improve the taste).
Beet pulp is naturally quite high in moisture, and thus is prone to mold, so it’s dehydrated and made into pellets or “shreds” before it’s packaged.
Beet pulp is an excellent source of digestible fibre. It’s relatively low in protein (about 8%) and high in calcium, which makes it an appropriate feed for almost all adult horses.
If you are feeding supplements, top-dressing corn oil, or giving your horse medications, beet pulp can be an excellent place to hide the yucky ingredients.
And it’s a great addition to the diet if your hay is of poor quality, or if your horse has dental problems and can’t chew long-stemmed forage …. or for horses recovering from an injury or an illness. Plus, it’s usually quite inexpensive.
The best way to feed beet pulp is to soak it in water a few hours before meal time; use twice as much water as beet pulp, and leave it to swell and absorb the moisture. (Because it has a tendency to ferment in warm weather, you’ll only want to make up one days’ worth at a time.)
The resulting brown, fluffy stuff can be mixed in with your horse’s grain or served on its own. But don’t worry if you’ve added a little too much liquid, or too little. You can’t actually explode a horse with unsoaked beet pulp.
A study in which ponies were fed dehydrated beet pulp, up to a level of 45% of their total diet, noted no ill effects whatsoever.
Not only did they not explode, but they also suffered no signs of colic, nor did the water content in their manure change. Most people prefer to soak beet pulp, however; it’s more palatable that way, and less likely to cause choke.
Myth #6
A weekly bran mash is good for my horse’s digestive health.
FACT: Wheat bran is actually junk food for horses. Yes, they love the taste, but it’s not that good for them. First, as a fibre source it’s not that digestible, and second, bran contains about 13 times as much phosphorus as calcium, an imbalance which can eventually affect a horse’s bone structure. Third, its famous laxative effect doesn’t really exist.
Horses are quite sensitive to sudden changes in their diets, so when you feed your horse a bran mash instead of his regular meal, it causes a mild digestive upset, and the result the next day is loose manure.
An occasional bran mash on a cold winter’s night does no real harm, but your horse’s digestive system would prefer beet pulp (which can be soaked with warm water for a similar effect).
If you feed bran on a daily basis, try to make it no more than 10% of his total diet (or zero if you’re feeding a young horse – the calcium/phosphorus imbalance can interfere with his growth). On the whole, there are lots of better feeds out there than bran.
Myth #7
Any conscientious owner should add a vitamin/mineral supplement to her horse’s feed.
FACT: If some is good, more is not necessarily better. If your horse is being fed good quality hay (and by “good quality”, I mean green and sweet-smelling, not dusty or moldy, and not over-mature) a commercial mixed grain ration (sweetfeed, pellets, or extruded) with a good balance of vitamins and minerals added, and has a salt block available for licking, he’s probably getting everything he needs from his diet already.
If your feed quality isn’t what you’d like it to be, a supplement may be a good idea, and top-dressing extra vitamins and minerals can also be helpful if you have one horse who needs extra nutritional support (a broodmare in her last trimester of pregnancy, for example) but don’t want to switch from the feed you’re giving the rest of your herd.
However, in many cases, owners include completely unnecessary supplements in their horse’s diets – and not only is it costing them money, it could potentially contribute to vitamin or mineral toxicities, which in many cases can be just as harmful as deficiencies!
Be particularly careful about supplementing selenium (Se); there’s a fine line between “enough” and “too much” with this trace mineral.
You should only be considering supplemental levels of this mineral if you know you live in an area where the soils are Se-deficient, and your grain ration is not already Se-supplemented (it will be noted on the feed tag).
If you have more feeding questions, don’t be afraid to ask your veterinarian or the horse-feed specialist at your local feed store. They’ll be able to provide you with common-sense advice, and help you make the best feed choices for your particular horse.
Different Types of Oats
Whole oats are a traditional grain for horses. However, it is better fed bruised, rolled or crushed as many horses will not chew whole grains properly and they simply pass through the horse whole and undigested, and therefore wasted.
Rolled oats are lightly crushed, just breaking the husk enough to allow for easier chewing.
Crushed oats are crushed more heavily, more of the kernel being exposed.
Crushed, rolled, or just bruised oats are all easier for horses to chew, and therefore the inside grain is more accessible to saliva and digestive juices.
However, as these processes kill the grain, they should be used within a week or so to be sure that they are fresh enough to eat. Otherwise, they start to rot and become mouldy as part of the process of decay.
